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Hugh wrote:

Does anybody have any strong candidates for a cheap/reliable alternative?

And I don't even need freedom-loving. Just technically competent and freedom-tolerating will do.

Yes. GANDI is all of the above. They are French. They explicitly state that you, not they, own a domain you register with them. After the Fyodor/GoDaddy/MySpace debacle, GANDI assured me that they would not have such a knee-jerk reaction, that they do not intend to police the Internet. They're a favorite among techies. I'm a satisfied customer.